My Favourite Sewing Patterns

More Complex - Sew Over It Vintage Shirtdress

I’ve just counted and I have a total of five Vintage Shirtdresses in my wardrobe and a further two which I altered into shirtwaisters. It helps that I went on the shirtdress course at Sew Over It so have a pattern which has been fine-tuned and altered to fit me perfectly.  For example, I’m pretty much a straight size 20 but had to blend down to a 14 around the shoulders and neck to avoid lots of gaping. I love how versatile this pattern is, my denim dress looks so different to the Liberty one and my crepe version has a real 1940s feel to it. It works for winter and summer.

Adapting it into a shirtwaister was pretty easy, I just cut the skirt front on the fold and completely finished the bodice (buttons and all) before attaching the skirt. I really like the way the skirt pieces hang on this dress and I doubt I’ve sewn my last!  

Quick Sew - Decades of Style ESP Everyday Dress

The ESP dress has a real retro feel to it with cute raglan sleeves. After my first couple, I added a band to the base of the sleeve and gather the sleeve volume into it, just a personal style preference. This is a super quick sew and the pattern really works for printed fabrics – it’s great for showing off novelty designs! It’s got lovely deep inseam pockets, a neat facing around the neck and plenty of volume in the skirt if you wanted to add a petticoat.

Knit Fabrics – Colette Patterns Moneta Dress

I like the simplicity of the Moneta and the fact that, when I first made it, it forced me to have a go at using a twin needle for the first time. I’ve only made one version with the proper gathered skirt (this was done at The Village Haberdashery with Charlotte Newland who won The Great British Sewing Bee) all the rest have a pleated skirt which I prefer. I like sewing most of the dress on my overlocker and just adding the twin needle stitching at the end. I do tend to add some ribbon into my shoulder seams to prevent the fabric from becoming stretched out and, a word of warning for anyone going over a size XL, the pattern does change shape so the front and back bodices pieces aren’t as interchangeable as they are on the smaller sizes. I really like it though and found that I didn’t need to do a FBA before sewing plus, let’s face it, some days you just want to wear a comfortable stretchy dress!

Shirt – Grainline Studios Archer

This is my favourite shirt pattern which I’ve made several times for my wife. Yes, there was much head scratching the first time I attempted the sleeve plackets and when trying to encase the top of the button band into the collar but it all worked out in the end. I’ve found this pattern works well for linen and both thick and lightweight cotton. There’s a sewalong on the Grainline site which covers all the trickier elements along with some style variations.

Pyjamas – Closet Case Patterns Carolyn Pyjamas

I have a bit of a soft spot for this pattern as it was my first attempt at piping which I now love! I’ve made two full length sets (one for me and one for my sister) and two pairs of shorts for myself and my wife. The shorts have a lovely wide leg which is ideal for hot summer months. It really is the perfect pyjama pattern with lots of classic elements and a flattering fit.

Worthy of a mention

Grainline Studios Linden Jumper – Great, basic sweatshirt pattern with a neck & waist band and cuffs. Quick make on the overlocker.

Grainline Studios Tamarack Jacket – A beautiful quilted jacket. I’ve made two of these (a cropped version for myself and a longer one for my sister). A very satisfying project to get your teeth into if you fancy a longer sew.

Sew Over It Elsie Dress – I’ve only made one of these so far but, my goodness, she’s a beauty. I’ve already ordered fabric to make my next two – I can see this pattern becoming my go-to when I need an extra special dress.

Gather Kits The Buchanan Gown – My pattern of choice when making my Allied inspired dressing gown. I’ve made a long line crepe version and the standard-length cotton version for holidays. Both have plenty of ease (I made the Large in both) and feature nice details like a hanging loop and a choice of patch or inseam pockets.