Simplicity 1880 Shirtdress

Hooray – I've got my sewing mojo back! I went in for what should have been the simple first part of my dental implant surgery 2 weeks ago. However my dentist encountered some complications and I ended up having a bone graft in my jaw. Not too traumatic as I was sedated and don’t remember a thing about it but it did mean stitches, a swollen face, a soft food diet and 5 days on the sofa. I didn't sew a stitch for about 10 days which is very unlike me as I like to try and do a little everyday – even if it’s only sewing one sleeve on!

Anyway I’m feeling much better now so I made up for it but having a mega sewing weekend which was lovely. I made a new shirtdress and started on my third Mortmain dress.

First up the shirtdress. I had great success with my flamingo version of McCalls 6696 and even started sewing up another version in a lightweight fabric however I really wanted a shirtwaister and have been searching for a pattern for a while. Enter Simplicity 1880. I've seen some really cute versions of the dress including Amy's nautical dress so ordered the pattern while it was half price. I dutifully made a toile of the bodice and shock horror – it fit straight out of the packet. This never happens to me! Normally I’m altering shoulders and necklines to get the fit right. I did add ½ inch to the side seams as this pattern only ran to a size 20 but it has a fair amount of ease.

I’d done some extensive blog reading on this pattern and was a little apprehensive about the skirt. Some people said it hung a little wonky, others said they had to add length to the back skirt as the pieces are the same for the front and back and didn't allow the curve of your bum… I prefer a fuller skirt on my dresses so decided to use the skirt pieces from the first McCalls shirtdress I made. I cut the skirt front on the fold and folded the pattern to reduce the seam allowance. I think this worked well as the skirt has the fullness that I like and there’s space for a petticoat underneath. I also added a pocket to the side without the zip as pockets are essential for the door fob to my office. I did try googling how to add a pocket to the side seam with the zip but ccouldn'tfind a tutorial and decided it was beyond my current skills – is it possible?

I found the collar a little tricky at first as construction was different to the McCalls shirtdress but I read the sewalong which was really helpful and when it came to sewing up the fashion fabric it was perfect. Making the toile first meant I could mess up the first collar without worrying too much – seriously people, always, make a toile!

I used the black floral fabric I bought on my birthday fabric shopping trip to the Goldhawk and some plain black buttons from my local Rolls & Rems. I’m debating making a tie to go around the waist but for now will wear it with a belt. The only downside is that it isn't lined… I do like to fully line my dresses but didn't even know where to begin with lining a shirtdress!  

I then started on my third Mortmain – really in love with this pattern at the moment. I’m using the blue floral fabric from Classic Textiles on the Goldhawk Rd and have experimented with a square neckline.  I watched a lot of Call the Midwife while I was off sick and felt inspired by their square necklined 50’s dresses! It’s looking fab so far – zip & hem to be completed and I’m hoping to be wearing it by the end of the week!

Next week I’m off to the The Knitting & Stitching Show and will, no doubt, buy more fabric. I've also booked myself onto the Sewing with Knits workshop so I can start using my overlocker to its full potential! Then I've got a week off work with 3 dedicated sewing days – I can’t wait and will have to plan out what I’m intending to sew. Anyone else planning to visit Alexandra Palace next week?

Hannah x